Wood Doors by Harvest Creek Millwork

Solid Wood Door Finishing

Steps to a successful finish suitable to the application, and type of wood:
1. Sanding
2. Pre-treating of Wood
3. Staining
4. Sealing
5. Finish Coat

Interior Finishing

Sanding - When wood is shipped to a site, it has been machined sanded and in some cases hand sanded. Then finish painter should further sand it on site. The wood may have oils from handling, scratches from shipping or handling during installation, or slight imperfections that were missed at some point. Wood is a natural product and each piece is uniquely different. It should be checked. The quality of the finish is only as good as the initial piece of wood. Remember that the use of course sandpaper requires the use of more fine sandpaper to remove the scratch marks left by the course sandpaper. The higher the screen of the final finish, the more critical one should be in the preparation of the wood initially.
Pre-treating - To prevent the blotching or uneven absorption of the stain, pre-treating is required for softwoods including Pine, Fir and closed grain hardwoods including Poplar, Maple, Cherry, Walnut and Birch. Commercial prepared preparations are available. If one does use a pre-treating formulation, the wood should be lightly sanded before the stain is applied. The sanding will open the closed surface grain allowing for a more uniform stain penetration.
Staining - The application of most stains only colors the wood. Normal stains do not protect the wood in any fashion. There are special stains that do act as a combination color and sealer, but we do not recommend most of them (as discussed under sealing). The following points should be remembered when staining - a) always apply the stain such that all the wood is uniformly covered. One may apply the stain across the grain then wipe it back in the direction of the grain. - b) wipe off the excess stain with a clean cloth. - c) let the stain dry completely. Stain that is not completely dry that is covered with a sealer may leave a white color under the sealer. If the stain is not uniform, more stain can be applied to blend areas that need work. If a stain/varnish mixture is used, this step can not be accomplished as easily.
Sealing - The application of a sealer to the wood is the first step in protection the wood. If the sealer is diluted slightly with the recommended diluent for the sealer used, the sealer will be carried into the wood further and give more protection to the wood. The wood should have a slight rough surface feel after sealing. This is an indication that the pores of the wood have been sealed and excess sealer is on the surface. A light sanding will remove this surface roughness. If one can not feel a surface roughness, apply a second coat of sealer. One must remember to seal all surfaces. If a piece of wood is being used in an application where there is high humidity, or significant temperature differences between on the face of the wood and the other (such as a window extension) it is advisable to seal the back of the wood prior to installation, ensuring a more uniform moisture penetration of the wood and thus preventing warping and checking. If one uses a combination stain/varnish mixture to color and seal the wood in one step, one has to be very careful in its application. It is a one step job that is unforgiving to the inexperienced.. If too much finish is applied, the color may not be uniform. If not enough is applied, the same may be the case, but the wood may not be properly sealed.
Finish Coat - The final coat or two give the wood the richness it deserves. With a fine sanding between coats, the finish should be applied in a dust free environment as smoothly as possible. Any missed areas of application will effect the quality of the finish and the life of the wood.

Exterior Finishing

Exterior finishing of woods follows the same steps as used for interior woods, but one must protect against the elements. Wood does not like water and sun light.
Penetrating sealers are good but not suitable on their own. One needs to protect the surface of wood. The penetrating sealers are absorbed into the wood and form a layer of protection under the surface of the wood. One still needs a surface treatment. There are many available. Sikkens has an excellent combination product, Cetol 1 and 23, but it will color the wood. A high grade of spar varnish or Urethane with a UV inhabitant is good but needs regular maintenance.
If one is not prepared to protect an exterior door or maintain it, do not use a wood exterior door.